The Grand Cru Goldert on the village of Gueberschwihr is probably the Grand Cru that has the highest proportion of Muscat grape, mostly the ‘small berry’ type, called Muscat d’Alsace. The gentle east facing slopes of the Goldert are on a rich and deep marl limestone, relatively late ripening capable of preserving the acidity and aromatic potential of this grape variety, even under warm weather. Muscat can be sometimes extraverted and varietal. It is caused by an incomplete physiologic ripeness that promotes an ordinary varietal expression. Achieving a great terroir expression on such grapes requires a vineyard capable to slow down the ripeness but also over power the grape variety characteristics. Something that the Goldert can do brilliantly. Muscat is also a rare wine in Alsace, difficult to explain, because most wines made around the world from this grape are sweet. Here in Alsace, not only are they much drier, but they also carry a wonderful acidity and lower alcohol potential. They are fabulous food wines!
2/2021: pale gold colour. Subtle floral/fruity nose with underlying intensity. It is clearly an aromatic wine, not shouting loudly its grape origin because the mineral presence of the Goldert keeps it elegant and complex. Medium power with good persistence, almost Riesling-like, the acidity keeps the palate focused, racy and dry. This wine should age beautifully and develop into the classic Goldert style: mint, bergamot, boxwood with a strong mineral palate structure.